1ER ARRONDISSEMENT. Offering impeccable seafood since 1872, this reputable restaurant has as its motto "Everything that comes from the sea." In fact, the owner buys straight from the dock's local fishermen. Specialties include grilled Breton lobster and scallop carpaccio with oysters. METRO: Madeleine

14èME ARRONDISSEMENT. Much to the delight of patrons, chef Gérard Allamandou doesn't feel compelled to mask fresh seafood in elaborate sauces or so much fussy preparation. Instead, he lets the Montparnasse restaurant's just-caught bounty speak for itself. A hint of bacon, a touch of oil, and everything's just as it should be. A great wine list also helps coax out the flavors of fish and shellfish. METRO: Gaîté (line 13)

8èME ARRONDISSEMENT. Something of a hidden gem, this restaurant delights in serving patrons the best and freshest seafood available. In fact, the day's menu depends on what was unloaded at the fish market that very morning. No matter what the kitchen prepares or that you end up choosing, you're assured that the integrity of fish and shellfish remains a prominent culinary goal. Preparations are simple and flavorful, and prices reflect the careful attention. METRO: Villiers

8èME ARRONDISSEMENT. The only embellishments needed in this spare dining room are fabulous 17th-century Flemish tapestries. The food stands out even then, and fresh seafood is more often than not dressed with one of the restaurant's glorious sauces. Diners can also choose from a seemingly infinite selection of wines (more than 900), especially whites. METRO: Ternes

7èME ARRONDISSEMENT. Divellec promises much to love, including exceptionally fresh seafood, yacht-like decor, and a celebrated wine cellar. Popular specials include lobster with pan-fried duck foie gras and iced cognac soufflé. METRO: Invalides